Guide to Jakarta’s street food culture

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Food is often described to have a direct line with a person’s soul. It often reflects someone’s characteristics and you can tell exactly what the person is like by the intake of their food. If you broaden the scope and apply the same logic with a country, you will get a pretty good picture on what makes the country tick. Besides, we all need food as our main source of nutrition and energy.

Sometimes the types of food that best represents a country are not found in fancy restaurants or five-star hotels, but it’s usually found in the simple stalls by the side of the road and hole in the walls. That’s why we’ve listed down a few of our favourite menu items from nasi goreng, sate ayam, to sop kaki kambing, and give you an explanation on detailing some basic information about the dish. A brief Jakarta street food 101 if you will. We do have to disclose that we’ve taken a liberal approach to the definition of “street food”. Meaning that some of these places aren’t necessary side-of-the-road stalls or kaki lima, but they all share that distinct ruggedness, down to earth feel, and of course, they won’t cost you a leg and an arm.

 

Nasi Goreng

What is it?

Fried rice piled high on you plate after it was cooked in a humongous wok pan. Everybody’s favourite Indonesian dish was thought to be inspired by Chinese migrants and merchants as early as the tenth century. Of course, locals gave the dish a unique twists that makes this particular dish undoubtedly Indonesian. Many claim the Indonesian version of the fried rice tastes sweeter because it utilises sweet soy sauce and many vendors of nasi goreng will even add in additional exotic spices to give it an additional punch.

Key ingredients:

Rice, sweet soy sauce, a selection of meats (chicken, beef, or lamb), eggs. Vegetables optional.

Best for:

Late night munchies, hearty breakfasts, and –oh who are we kidding, you can eat nasi goreng anytime of the day and it’ll always feel right.

Safe bets:

Nasi Goreng Apjay – You can find two types of nasi goreng at this place: kebuli (Middle Eastern influenced) and Javanese (a sweeter variation).

Jl. Panglima Polim IX, Jakarta Selatan

Nasi Goreng Bhakti –One of the most famous nasi goreng stalls in Jakarta serves hearty portions of heavily spiced fried rice, with their goat fried rice to be the crown jewel.

Jl. Bhakti, Blok S, Jakarta Selatan

Feeling adventurous:

Nasi Goreng Ikan Asin Alila –Where most stalls go with the reliable chicken, beef, or goat as ingredients, this nasi goreng utilises salted fish as their champion ingredient.

Jl. Pecenongan, Jakarta Pusat

Nasi Goreng Gila Sabang –Commonly known as nasi gila or “crazy rice”, this particular hotspot gained notoriety because the dishes are concocted utilising a plethora of ingredients that include sausages, meatballs, stir fried vegetables, shallots, and eggs. It’s also a tad on the sweeter side.

Jl. Sabang, Jakarta Pusat

 

 Sate

What is it?

Sate or satay is skewered meat grilled above an open fire of charcoal and typically served with rice cakes and a serving of either sweet soy sauce or peanut sauce. It’s widely acknowledged to be a Javanese dish and thought to originate as far back as the eighteenth century when a lot of Middle Eastern merchants plied their trade in Indonesia. Nowadays, there’s a wide variety of methods in cooking sate and an equally varied amount of meat that’s used as the main ingredient. Also, some areas in Indonesia have localized this dish and made it their own through different sauces.

Key ingredients:

A selection of meats (chicken, beef, lamb, pork, or shellfish), sweet soy sauce, grounded peanuts, fresh shallots, chili peppers.

Best for:

When eaten without rice or rice cakes, sate makes for a satisfying mid-day snack. A good serving of sate is also the perfect dish after a big night out in town.

Safe bets:

Sate Pertamina –Arguably one of the most legendary sate stalls in Jakarta, this particular spot serves up a delicious portion of chicken sate. You can’t miss it because it’s situated right across from the Pertamina Hospital (RSPP), hence its name.

Jl. Kyai Maja No. 43, Jakarta Selatan

Sate Kambing H. Giyo –In contrast with most sate vendors, this stall specialises in goat meat in the form of sate kambing. What makes this place special is that their chunks of meat are bigger than average yet still retaining the tenderness and juiciness that you can expect from a good plate of sate kambing.

Jl. DI Panjaitan No. 42, Jakarta Timur

Feeling adventurous:

Buana 94 –This one’s for pork lovers that want to travel far and wide to find only the best dishes made from our pig friends. Getting to Buana 94 is half the fun because it’s situated smack in the middle of Mangga Besar.

Jl. Mangga Besar Raya, Jakarta Pusat

Sate Kuda Pak Rehan –Now this one is truly for adventurous spirits who want to taste something not commonly found in most places. Kuda in Indonesian means horse and yes, Pak Rehan sells horse sate. If you’re thinking about trying horse meat, it has a rather chewy consistency similar to that of goat’s meat but is not as pungent.

Jl. Pemuda, Jakarta Timur

 

Soto Ayam

What isit?

Soto ayam is actually an umbrella term for Indonesian chicken soup. When you take a look more specifically, there actually different types of soto ayam typically named after the area they originate from; such as Ambengan, Madura, and Kudus. Different to most chicken soups around the world, soto ayam is usually yellow-ish in colour because it uses turmeric as one of the seasoning’s main ingredients. It is widely considered to be a dish that originated from East Java.

Key ingredients:

Chicken, bean sprouts, vermicelli, turmeric, galangal, bay leaf, and candlenut.

Best for:

A light and fresh lunch to restart your day after morning activities. When it’s raining outside and a bit chilly, a bowl of hot soto ayam will immediately set things straight.

Safe bets:

Soto Ambengan Cak Di –Popular with office workers from nearby Sudirman, Cak Di has a secret weapon that separates it from the crowd: koya, a powdery mixture of crushed garlic, prawn crackers, and other things that still remain a mystery to this very day.

Jl. Kyai Maja No. 43, Jakarta Selatan

Soto Kudus Garuda –Unlike some of its East Javanese counterparts, the Kudus-styled soto has a hint of sweetness to its soup. Garuda has attained a huge loyal customer base due to the stall’s perfect balance between the aforementioned sweetness with savouriness.

Jl. KH Abdullah Syafei No. 522, Jakarta Selatan

Feeling adventurous:

Soto Pak Gendut –Looking for an additional gelatinous texture to your soto? You’ve come to the right place. Pak Gendut is famous for using chicken’s feet in his piping hot bowls of soto.

Jl. Sabang, Jakarta Pusat

 Soto Ayam Gandaria –Just like Pak Gendut, this hawker stall sells offers soto ayam with chicken’s feet. Furthermore, they also offer the innards of the chicken such as intestines, liver, and heart as additional toppings.

Jl. Gandaria Tengah 7, No. 1, Jakarta Selatan

 

Sop kaki kambing

What is it?

A creamy and rich soup filled to the brim with all parts of the goat. When we say everything, we mean it. Ever fancied what goat ears, lungs, or even testicles taste like? This is your chance to broaden your scope and go for something entirely bizarre. Sop kaki kambing is quintessential to the Big J because it was created by the Betawi people of Jakarta. This particular dish has gained a massive cult following and the best soups are often described as ultra-savoury, creamy, with a hint of sourness, and completely tastes like heaven.

Key ingredients:

Goat’s feet, goat innards, melinjo crackers, goat’s milk, fried shallots, and tomatoes.

Best for:

Due to its extreme richness, a bowl of sop kaki kambing is best enjoyed as an early supper. Although some people would describe it as the perfect late-night meal.

Safe bets:

Sop Kaki Kambing Dudung Roxy –Without doubt, the most famous sop kaki kambing vendor in all of Jakarta. Although technically it’s no longer as grassroots as it used to be, it still retains the taste that made it an institution since 1976.

Jl. Biak, Jakarta Barat

Soto Kaki Kambing Irwan –This is another legendary stall that has been around since the 1980s. Irwan is always filled to the brim even from the minute they open up shop and if you arrive later in the evening, there’s a high chance they’ve already sold out most of their good meat cuts leaving only eyeballs and testicles.

Jl. Melawai XIII, Jakarta Selatan

Feeling adventurous:

Sop Kaki Kambing Bang Karim –What sets Bang Karim apart is they use pure goat’s milk as the main ingredient of their soup. It goes without saying, this stall is meant for those who want go all out when it comes to enjoying a savoury bowl of goat bits. Oh, and he’s been around selling sop kaki kambing since the 1960s as well.

Jl. KH Mas Mansyur, Jakarta Pusat

 Sop Kaki Kambing Bang Anen –We’ve categorised this stall as adventurous because it’s situated further south than the others and its shop is set up in a very inconspicuous manner. Even though not everybody would recognise Bang Anen immediately, it’s claimed to have hosted celebrities and even a former president.

Jl. Fatmawati No. 37, Jakarta Selatan

 

Nasi Gudeg

What is it?

A sweet and savoury dish built around a pile of rice and caramelized jackfruit. Gudeg is originally from Yogyakarta and is often eaten with a bunch of side dishes such as chicken, chayote soup, and a spicy cow’s skin. If any of that sound off-putting, wait until you actually see the dish right in front of your eyes. We’ve heard people describe some versions of gudeg to have the appearance of dirt. But the taste can’t be any further than that misconception because it’s predominantly sweet with only the soup and cow’s skin providing a respite with savouriness.

Key ingredients:

Rice, chicken, jackfruit, cow’s skin, chayote, and coconut milk.

Best for:

This is one of our favourite lunch dishes plainly because the portions are usually humongous. Furthermore it’s enough to satiate your sweet tooth that’s been craving for some sugar.

Safe bets:

Gudeg Pak Atmo –A well-established gudeg joint in Gandaria, Pak Atmo is actually the name of the original cook. It is said that he was once a cook for the Mangkunegara Palace in the 1920s. You’ll truly get an authentic taste of Java’s prized culinary gem.

Jl. Gandaria 1, No. 2, Jakarta Selatan

Gudeg Bu Gito –This particular rumah makan serves the dry type of gudeg. Compared to its moist counterparts, dry gudeg is perfect for those who wants an additional texture characteristic in their dish.

Jl. Kebagusan Raya No. 9, Jakarta Selatan

Feeling adventurous:

Gudeg Bu Tinah –Bu Tinah is also another big favourite among many Jakartans, and reportedly it’s also the favourite gudeg joint for two Indonesian presidents. What’s made Bu Tinah so popular is that the gudeg is served with a splash of opor or chicken soup with coconut milk.

Jl. Srikaya II, Jakarta Pusat

 Gudeg Jogja Bu Harjo –Bu Harjo has been serving gudeg-lovers since the 1960s. What makes this warung suitable for those who are more adventurous is that you need to navigate the labyrinth that is the Cikini Market.

Ground Floor of Pasar Cikini, Jakarta Pusat

 

Nasi uduk

What is it?

Indonesia’s take on savoury rice that’s whose fragrance is usually the main factor that lures in diners like moths to a lamp. Many consider nasi uduk to be a staple food for the Betawi people and therefore it’s a part of Jakarta’s cultural heritage. To accompany the rice, nasi uduk is usually served with different permutation of condiments depending on who’s cooking or selling it. These items may include fried chicken, grated pan-fried coconuts, fried eggs, vegetables, or salted fish. Unlike most rice dishes, the sambal for nasi uduk is typically peanut-based instead of tomato and chili-based.

Key ingredients:

Rice, coconut milk, pandan leaf, cassia bark, clove, and lemongrass.

Best for:

Starting your day right by ingesting a fragrant plate of nasi uduk for breakfast or it could also be the perfect food for late-night meals after a night out.

Safe bets:

Nasi Uduk Kebon Kacang –The most legendary nasi uduk joint in the whole city. Ask any local to name their top three nasi uduk places, and more often than not the name Kebon Kacang will pop up somewhere in the conversation. They sell the rice in miniscule portions at a fraction of the price, so you can completely pig-out or better yet, limit your carb intake by taking only one or two.

Jl. Kebon Kacang 8, Jakarta Pusat

Nasi Uduk Gondangdia –The sambal takes centre stage at this warung. In addition to its alluring fragrant rice, Nasi Uduk Gondangdia offers two types of sambal: peanut-based and chili-based.

Jl. Cikini IV No. 12, Jakarta Pusat

Feeling adventurous:

Nasi Uduk Ibu Sum –This one’s for late-night foodies, as they only begins cooking at 10pm at night. Better yet, you get to choose your own toppings and condiments from a selection of at least 30 items. Try out their chicken and fish dishes.

Jl. Mangga Dua Raya No. 51A, Jakarta Utara

 Pecel Lele Permata Mubarok –This is the place to go if you want to try both nasi uduk and pecel lele (deep fried catfish). Aside from the typical chicken and fish, you can also order a side of deep fried duck with your plate of nasi uduk.

Komplek Permata Buana, Jl. Puri Kembangan, Jakarta Barat

 

Lapo

What is it?

Generally speaking, lapo actually means “a place to eat” in the Batak language. For simplicity reasons, the word is often interchangeable to describe Batak food in general –although some purists might argue otherwise. Lapo places all share a common denominator that has pushed the people of North Sumatra to the forefront of Indonesian cooking: pork. Different from most indigenous tribes in the archipelago, a lot of Batak people are Christians or Catholics and therefore they sure know how to cook a mean pork dish. Roasted, fried, or cooked with sweet soy sauce, Batak food is one of the tastiest in the whole country.

Key ingredients:

Rice, pork, chilies, and more pork. It’s a carnivore’s dream.

Best for:

We like having our roast pork under the mid-day sun. Lunch is the way to go especially if you’re lucky enough to work near a lapo.

Safe bets:

Toba Dream –Even though it’s technically a restaurant, Toba Dream still retains that elusive home-cooked feel and taste. Oh, it’s owned by Viky Sianipar, a renowned Batak musician who gaine recognition nationally.

Jl. Dr Saharjo No. 90, Jakarta Selatan

Lapo Marpadotbe –You’ll understand why this place is one of the most famous lapo in all of Jakarta. Their cuts of meat are gigantic, tasty, and succulent. Add into the mix their signature sambal, and you’ve got yourself a winner.

Jl. Ahmad Yani No. 26, Jakarta Timur

Feeling adventurous:

Lapo Ni Tondongta –This is arguably the most famous lapo stall in the city. The original is located behind the parliament buildings, but it has since spawned numerous branches across the city. The reason we’ve put it in the adventurous category is because the original stall is quite rugged and not to mention you can actually savour what people call “B1”, or codename for dog meat –if you come on the right day and early in the morning.

Jl. Gelora Senayan, Jakarta Pusat

 Lapo Dainang –Also near Senayan, Lapo Dainang is known for their huge cuts of meat, some comes with the bone still attached. Fancy a Batak-styled pork rib? This is the place.

Jl. Gelora Senayan, Jakarta Pusat

 

Martabak

What is it?

The name martabak was derived from an Arabic word that means “folded”. Hence, martabak is a pancake of sorts that’s stuffed with abundant toppings. In Indonesia, there are two versions of martabak: savoury (martabak asin) and sweet (martabak manis). They both differ in appearance whereas the savoury one will usually have a thinner outer layer, while the sweet martabak will have a thicker and moist outer layer similar to a crumpet. As time goes on, martabak vendors –especially the sweet ones- got more creative and we can now order a sweet martabak topped with Toblerones or Kit Kats.

Key ingredients:

Yeast, baking soda, margarine, sugar, and select toppings.

Best for:

Post-dinner desserts for the sweet ones and dinner appetizers for the savoury ones.

Safe bets:

Martabak Boss –This place was considered to be a pioneer for “modernising” the way people cook martabak. Case in point, they offer a martabak that has pandan leaf extracts mixed in with the dough.

Jl. Panglima Polim No. 9, Jakarta Selatan

Martabak 65A Pecenongan –Here we have another pioneer that ushered in the age modern martabak. This vendor is credited to be the first martabak seller that offers premium toppings such as Toblerone, Kit Kat, and Nutella.

Jl. Pecenongan Raya No. 65A, Jakarta Pusat

Feeling adventurous:

Martabak San Francisco –It’s still a mystery why they named this stall after the Golden City. Perhaps it’s because they offer some unique toppings for their savoury martabak, such as black pepper beef, corned beef, and tuna.

Jl. Ir H Juanda, Depok

 Martabak Top Bandung Gendut –The name literally means “fat”. And fat you will be if you come here often. It’s quite a surprise that this martabak stall has not sky-rocketed in fame because many who live around the area will swear that this is the best martabak in Jakarta. Perhaps they prefer to be underexposed after all.

Jl. Wolter Monginsidi, Jakarta Selatan

 

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